Daily Archives: January 26, 2009

Short back and sides

I have been wanting a haircut for weeks at least a month. When Seerung said she wanted a driving lesson this afternoon I said sure but we are going to town and I am getting my hair cut.
We parked in the market square and saw a couple of hairdressers but they looked a bit flash and girlie. I told Seerung that I also wanted an old fashion shave with a cut throat razor.
She asked at one of the girlie looking places where we might find one and the hairdresser said right next door. Sure enough there it was. We couldn’t see it because it was so dark and gloomy but we walked closer and as our eyes became adjusted to the lack of light I saw it.
A real barbers shop just like out of a 1930’s movie.
There were two chairs and one was vacant. The man who was already cutting gestured for me to sit in the spare chair. A man sleeping on a mat stirred to life and came over to commence business.
No need to tell him what style, how long, how short or what colour I would like my tips, just sit down and shut up because in a real mans barbar shop there is only one style.
Short back and sides.
He went to work with the precision of a surgeon and 20 minutes later he was done. It gave me plenty of time to have a sneaky look around the room as you don’t want to turn your head too much when someone has scissors that close to your wing nuts.. The wall had a few old (very old) original movie posters plus the obligatory half naked calendars. A small wooden table separated the two chairs and and it was crowded with bottles of aftershave that looked like they were left over from the war, a few scissors and razors completed the picture.
The floor was concrete, the walls were wood. A long wooden bench ran along the back wall for waiting customers.
After the hair cut was finished with a flick of the rest my chair transformed quicker then a A380 airbus air bed and was just as comfortable (I assume). The shave had begun. He was good, very good and 10 minutes later I was admiring my new look in the mirror and contemplated asking him where does a new recruit like me find the local marines office?
He splashed something on my face and it smelt just like lao khao (local rice whisky) so I asked him if it was. He just laughed.
Total price: 40 baht ($1.75 Aus)


According to Wikipedia, the term kathoey or katoey (กะเทย) generally refers to a male-to-female transgender person or an effeminate gay male in Thailand.

Personally I think it is wrong, very wrong and goes against everything I believe in. However, I have had to learn also that katoeys are widely accepted here in Thailand. So accepted that there are many that are famous movies stars and pop singers although that is where it ends. Katoeys are seen as entertainment so you won’t see too many running for parliament or as CEO’s or companies.

My wife has a second cousin called Lek. Lek grew up directly opposite Seerungs house and therefore he and his family have been extremely close.

Here is a photo of Lek 4 years ago when he came to visit us when we were living in bangkok. He is 13 years old.


He finished school about 9 months ago and moved to Bangkok to work in a factory aged 17. When we arrived in Thailand back in October we gave him a call and told him to come and see us if he had time. He was really excited and organised to come over that evening.
Just before he arrived I was briefing Ariya on who was coming and telling her that her Uncle Lek was coming to visit. 10 minutes later Lek bursts through the door in a dramatic entrance and with one quick look I turned and said to Ariya, “come and say hello to your Auntie Lek.”

We had heard whispers that something was up but nothing quite this dramatic! He had bits he never had before, wore a skirt and high heels and a lot of make up. Fast forward to yesterday and because of Chinese New Year he had sometime off and came home to the village for a few days with his older brother. This would be the first time his parents had seen the new Lek but as was to be expected didn’t blink much of an eye and it was happy families as usual. Here is a photo of him that I took yesterday.


Leks older brother, also called Lek (don’t ask because I don’t know) is causing some concern. I met Lek 5 years ago and he was the most generous and happy man you could want to find. He would give the shirt of his back to help a stranger. He was married and has the most gorgeous twin daughters. Last year his wife who also worked in a factory (different one) started to not come home during week nights saying she was staying at a friends house because the commute was to tiring (it was) She would come home every weekend however. Then one day she never came home at all, no explanation and they haven’t seen each other since. The change in the man was dramatic. He started drinking when he arrived in the village at 6am, had a sleep and then began drinking when he woke up. He is sullen and quiet and rightfully so everyone is very concerned for him. I wish I could have a talk with him but it just wouldn’t be the done thing and my Thai isn’t good enough to have those sorts of conversation. I hope someone can get through to him soon.