Tag Archives: Issan food

What to eat in Ubon Ratchathani

My previous blog entry was written by Chris who at the end of it mentioned his new project called Coconut TV.

He decided to get some practice in for it by composing a video called Top 9 eats in Ubon Ratchathani and is after some feed back. I don’t think there will be much constructive criticism Chris as considering this is your first time attempting something like this, I think you have done an amazing job!

You did ask for feedback though so for what it is worth here are a few points of my own that may help.

* Don’t wear sunglasses at the beginning of the video. Later on sure, but not when we are ‘meeting’ you for the first time.
* Hand movements and gestures are important but remember you are not a bird trying to take off!
* The Cut away shots showing you talking the ‘other’ camera don’t seem to work. I think they are a great idea but perhaps use them when you are eating the food or something.
* If I was to be really picky I might suggest that we don’t need to see you sampling every one of the nine dishes. Just telling us how good it is with a close up shot of it should be enough.

What do others think? Have a look at it and place your feedback either here or on you tube. I personally think some more of this type of media would be a great thing for Ubon Ratchathani.

I have eaten at five of the nine places he mentions so will try and make the last four on my next trip to Ubon. That Vietnamese restaurant is top of that list!


Eating rat, snake and bird – a Thailand feast!

The other week my Brother In Law (BIL) came home right on dusk grinning like a kid at the show grounds with a pocket full of money. Instead of money, he had a plastic bag which he proudly showed me.

He told me he had caught them but I suspect the neighbour may have and BIL trading them for something else. He told me that tonight he was cooking a three course meal. Entree will be bird, main course – snake and to wrap things up desert would consist of a fabulous looking rat.

He got to work so I stuck around for as long as I could (kids needed bathing etc) to take a few photos to share with you all.

Now I don’t mind people killing as many snakes and rats as they want to feed their family but I was a little sad that this tiny bird got mixed up in this particular feast. I mentioned to BIL that there are no birds around as it is so why kill the few remaining ones? His simple answer was of course, “If I don’t then someone else will.” *sigh*.

The bird only took a few minutes as it was so tiny. Warm it up on the coals to make plucking easier, pluck and then back on the coals for another minute or so.

The snake was a little more complex. First it was warmed up on the Thai style BBQ.

Here is my BIL, the head chef.

cooking snake on coals

Once it is warmed up enough you then remove its scales.

It was then clean and gutted before being returned to the coals for a few more minutes.

With that out of the way it was time for everyone’s favourite. Desert.

Once again it all starts with the BBQ. This time instead of warming it up it was set on fire to burn of most of the rat hair. The resulting smell set tongues salivating around my house and the close neighbours.

Burning didn’t remove it all so a knife (sort of) was procured to finish the job.

The rat is then placed back on the coals and turned occasionally to ensure that the rat meat is cooked to perfection.

Bon Appétit!


What is that smell? Pla Ra (ปลาร้า) and Som Tum (ส้มตำ)

Driving home from town the other day I stopped off at my sister in laws shop to drop of some stock that I had picked up for her. She was a little busy as parked out the front was this vehicle.

It takes a lot to get my SIL excited so I was interested in what it was that the man was selling to make her grin like a shot fox. I ventured closer to take a look but it was the smell that hit me before I could even see what was in the containers.

To everyone’s amusement I backed up very quickly as the smell that was attacking my nose is seriously one of the worst things in the world that man has ever created. Why they bothered with Mustard gas in the war is beyond me when this lethal concoction was readily available in North Eastern Thailand.

It is called Pla ra (ปลาร้า). It is basically a fermented fish sauce and is so popular in the North East of Thailand that it almost forms its own currency!

It is made by pickling fish. There are a few varieties in it but the main ingredient is the Snake head fish. Once the fish is caught, cleaned and cut up into small pieces it is thrown into a big jar along with salt and rice bran before being covered with a wooden lid. There it lies for between three months and a year, slowly but surely fermenting itself into the it’s pernicious final product.

So why make such a vile product? Well apparently it is meant to taste really good! It is mainly used in what would have to be the most popular dish in the North East. Som Tum (ส้มตำ). Som Tum is a spicy salad usually made from shredded green papaya. Just amongst my family here in the village it would be eaten on average once a day, every day.

So this man with the stink bomb on wheels travels all around the area selling his own special concoction of hell and the locals can’t get enough of it!

I took a big breath and entered back into ground zero just to take the following two photos for you the reader. You can thank me by clicking on one of the advertising links when you have finished this story!

He was a delight to talk to and really made me laugh when we had the following conversation. I have embellished it ever so slightly as I wish my Thai language skills were that good, but the aren’t. The final line is exactly what was said though.

Stinky Fish Man: “Why did you back away like a man who has just seen a ghost?”

Ignorant Foreigner: “Because what ever it is you are selling stinks like all my nightmares rolled into one”

Stinky Fish Man: “But this is Pla ra (ปลาร้า), the most famous ingredient in Thailand. With out it, Thailand would simply stop.”

Ignorant Foreigner: “That may be the case but it is an assault on my senses. I don’t know how anyone can make it, smell it, let alone eat it.”

Stinky Fish Man: “You eat cheese don’t you?”

Chalk up a point to the Stinky Fish Man as he does have a point!